Debut New York Celebrates Timo Weiland's Spring/Summer 2010 Collection

New York, Wu York

York Wu is the quintessence of the modern designer: a multi-platform, globally-minded precision artist. He’s set forth with focused, singular creativity in sculpture, interior design, art and creative offshoots, specifically WUYORK’s decadent, delicately crafted army of bowties.

The unisex pieces are nestled in a substantial leather case, adorned with the slippery satin ends of ribbons that affix the bows around the neck, wrist or wherever one can find a place. It feels somehow “off” to refer to these as accessories, so without bringing too lofty references to the interpretation of fashion, I’ll leave it as such: WUYORK’s bowties are little works of drama.

A neat black leather tie has an errant “strand” that drips with glinting silver studs. Another that looks from afar like a smooth cream bow is in fact stiff cotton cording pleated to look like a single piece. An organized chaos of black organza has a blousy, Victorian-meets-Yohji sensibility, and is shown as a pin to the lapel of a jacket. We like it worn over a bright white t-shirt, or perhaps peeking out from beneath a slick tuxedo sans shirt.

There’s a sensuality to each of these perfect pieces that comes from Wu’s intense care for his work, as well as the lightness and duality of the materials. The aim to transfix, transpose and transcend is at work here, and it will not remain unnoticed for long.

She said...

He said...

Cool.

A flash of color from behind a khaki trench is a siren call of spring, of parties, and better things to come. Structured dresses, high hemlines and lightly sculpted fabrics call to mind days of high heels, bare legs and long dinners on porches somewhere not…here.

And thank-you, Julian J. Smith, for reminding us that we can don one of your color-packed frocks any day of the year and feel exuberant.

Smith, a London fashion darling if there ever was one in Debut’s midst has quickly developed a following for his simple, yet structured looks that are all about maximum impact without high concept fuss, in the vein of Pop Art of the 60s.

Color is used strategically, yet unabashedly and woven in clean lines over neutral navy, beige and I suppose, yes, pink can be considered a neutral in Smith’s lexicon. A preppy vibe tugs gently around the edges of spare shift shapes and short-sleeved nip-waisted dresses, but Smith is about the playful factor with undulating folds of silk and hems that reignite the hemline vs. economic state debate.

Pair with the highest heels and go:

Parisii: The Craftsmen

Paris fashion week, arguably the most anticipated of the biannual events, is a time of exclusivity, hedonism and purpose. We are reminded that great creativity exists in the original hotbed of fashion, with all the deserved pomp and circumstance. And so we’ve flown off to see what this character of a city will bring us to distinguish ourselves for Fall 2010.

To comfort our compatriots back home we’ve left one of Paris’s current and future jewels: Calla. In our history, never has a designer generated such natural heat prior to arriving in-store. We’ve had emails from Brazil, calls from California and neighborhood friends stopping by “just to check in” on Calla’s debut collection.

The designer, Calla Haynes, hails from Toronto and attended Parsons in New York and Paris, where it seems she was truly born and raised. For it was with the houses of Rochas and Ricci, and individuals like Olivier Theyskens – arbiters of the lean construction and lightness of hand we attribute to the masters – where Calla honed her craft. She then moved on to develop original prints for designers including Alexander Wang and Erin Fetherston.

The sum of her skills and proclivities is a collection for the modern “coquine” – a woman who needs a new luxury brand that looks as good as it feels to wear. Airy silk organza and buttery cotton layering separates feel enlightened, so perhaps “The City of Light” is a moniker-cum-self-fulfilling prophecy for its young talent.

* The perfect new "twin-set" - a silky cotton cropped top with a draped racerback tank

* PERFECT Black Pants

And from this slumber you shall wake, when true love's kiss, the spell shall break

How long it takes to realize one’s inner style: whether to be minimal or a maximist; to be androgynous or feminine and whimsical. When one is an enthusiast for fashion, and the diversity and expression of its realm, it can be a quandary to be confident in a personal aesthetic. What would it be if distilled and bottled as a fragrance? So many options, so many places to go…so little closet space.

How fortunate then, that a characteristic of the industry is the arrival of up-and-coming designers who put forth work that is, quite simply, awesome (to borrow a phrase from the Olympic atmosphere this week). We’ve found this in Eun Jeong’s collection of off-kilter rock snow queen confections. Mini dresses and tops of linen, lace and silk have silver crystal details, and sculpted shoulders. These are wisps of clothing at first glance – and a sensory delight at that – yet strong.

A white on white palette provides the canvas to highlight the synthesis of material and detail, and lends airiness and delicacy. Jeong clearly knows the power of a classical ballet dancer’s costume (by which she was in part inspired): the strongest pieces are the least forced. Her collection simply floats, gem-like into your conscious. 

Once is Not Enough

Debut isn’t exactly the destination that comes to mind for a seasonal little black dress. It is, however, a veritable one-stop shop for the newest pieces to add to one’s collection. And if there is one thing we think trumps the LBD it’s a signature look as rendered by new designers.

Versace made his own; Chanel perhaps defined the concept of a signature look and Karl hammered it home; and now a couple of times each season new designers will do the same. We value this occurrence, since it gives us cause and joy to continue working with those who first struck us as golden from the upstart. Felder Felder would fall in this category.

We first wrote about the brand’s Fall 2010 collection here, and we waxed on and on about the rock and roll, studded glove-fit-like of the pieces. The sister design duo explored this aesthetic further for Spring, and rendered supple leather and knits into structured, interestingly cropped jackets, taught mini dresses and lean trousers.

Glittery armor-like elements and eye-catching cutouts add a lighter element of “tough”, yet these are offset by the color palette wherein gold is treated as a neutral, with the addition of slate, pale olive and peachy nude throughout.

It felt new, and it felt signature and true to the Felder Felder look – should that particular piece you fall for so happen to be a little black dress, rejoice in its newness and its ability to endure as these undoubtedly will.

Sleeping Beauty

French designer Aurore Thibout’s work possesses an initial fragile quality; a misty, sun-dappled aura, invoking a lithe girl bounding through a field montage. The delicate pieces arrived at Debut, and visions of The Princess Bride leapt forth. Airy tulle skirts and subtle trompe l’oleil embossed camisoles are fit for the most innocent of characters.

We digress with our fairytale raptures, though. It is important to note that Thibout studiously investigates performance art and costume design, summoning the intrinsic emotional aspects of these arenas in her own handwork. The longing to capture the beauty in ephemeral moments bursts forth in Thibout’s collection, and is evident both at first glance, and upon further inspection.

The spare, deceptive simplicity of the designs is undeniably graceful, and yet surprisingly confident and sensual – the pieces beg for a closer look, and demand appreciation. They’ll become staples – a pleated skirt will work well with bare legs come spring, and add a bit of lightness paired later with tights and cashmere. Most importantly, Aurore Thibout allows for us to play dress-up in our everyday lives.

* an ivory "memory relief" trompe l'oleil sleeveless dress

* tulle camisole with memory relief applique (a trompe l'oliel tuxedo detail)

* tulle pleat waist skirt

please note that these also come in black - we suggest owning both items to wear together on formal occassions, and seperately for work and play (hint: the tulle camisole with a men's tux)