Sunday, March 13, 2011

New Look

Heikki Salonen throws it all at us, but in subtle doses: clean lines, 80s and 90s abstract skate culture references and Native American twang. The Finnish designer has been with debut for two seasons, and is in his third as an independent brand (following a stint at British darling brand Erdem, and appointment as Creative Consultant to Diesel). 

Fall/Winter was blade-runner sleek, with sheared chiffon-inset knit trousers worthy of the Bauhaus, a hunter green lambskin sheath dress, and what have become (at least in our eyes) signature raw-edges and layers.

Spring 2011 ushers in a lighter hand, with buoyant linen pieces in shades of smoke and off-season Oceanside.

A chalk white dress features a shredded and layered “ruffle” hem that wouldn’t look out of place on a girl sporting Vans. The same goes for a below-the knee slip on “ruffle” hem skirt with side pockets riding low on the hips. Pair with knuckle duster spike rings, a t-shirt of any make and size and move.

Lacking for sophistication the collection is not, however. A sheath dress with a gently folded neckline and an asymmetric cropped linen blazer are for the girl with a surfboard strapped to her car, and a corner office waiting for her on Mondays.

Heikki’s clothing is meant to be lived in and loved in any state, and our bursting rack at debut will surely dwindle in early days this season.

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