Debut's Debutantes

Brittney Major named winner of Debut New York’s inaugural Designer Open Call.

For the past month Debut has combed through designer portfolio submissions from qualified entrants to our first Designer Open Call initiative. Individuals from around the country braved the specters that the processes of competition and scrutiny invoke, and put forth their personal best for our review. We marveled as always at the surge of talent, and while it is indisputably difficult to choose one talent from many, we found ourselves piqued by Brittney Major, a recent graduate from the Academy of Art University in San Francisco.

Propelled by her passion for the inherent artistry of fashion design, and the relevance of the medium in a modern woman’s wardrobe, Brittney’s foundation is solid. She offers a point of view that feels at once new and easy, and in this sense embodies the idea of “discovery” that is at our core.

We will launch her full collection exclusively this Spring 2010 season – look for more about Brittney and her work from us in the New Year.

Because the difficulty of our choice was absolute, we’ve selected a runner up in Jie Pan. Jie is also an Academy of Art graduate, and displayed a heightened level of stirring, technical wizardry. We will celebrate Jie’s achievement by carrying a selection of looks through February 2010.

Equilibrium of Contrasts

To Long-Nam is a young, Paris-based designer who feels elusive in the best possible way, like cherry blossom “season” in Manhattan, or the lone perfect blazer in our size in the recesses of a small boutique. We admit that we feel a bit giddy to have a range from his Autumn/Winter 2009 collection at Debut New York presently. These capture all that is wonderful about discovering a new designer skilled in the creation of classic-yet-not.

Inky wool “suiting” pieces include draped, meticulously seamed and finished blazers with a hint of equestrian tailoring, and faint echoes of the European masters of construction. A hand-pleated organza tuxedo blouse is intensely delicate, but offers a modern compromise with a knitted, adjustable fold over neckline. A perfect sheath in white silk with a night-black inset down the front has a looping seam detail around the right shoulder, which offsets the stark palette without detracting from the simplicity and straight-forward nature of the design.

Structured yet somehow liquid silhouettes exemplify Long-Nam’s use of contrasting elements to create a harmonious design language. We feel this serves as a solid foundation for the essentials that arrive in spurts in this world – Jil Sander and Helmut Lang for instance now both erstwhile from their namesake brands – and Long-Nam, we hope, will be here for the duration.

* This jacket is the most intricate: a "waist coat" blazer in black wool/cashmere 

* A silk shift with seam detail and black contrast inset

* Black wool/silk contoured blazer

* These three are easily the most deceptively simple: the white button down is a classic "perfect" shape; however notice the contoured sleeve; the organza "tuxedo" blouse features a knitted turtleneck with hidden snaps for an adjustable fit; the classic wool crewneck is light weight and its contoured shoulder seams offer a subtle differentiation.

Debut New York's Open Call to Designers

DEBUT NEW YORK

DESIGNER OPEN CALL

 

What: Debut New York extends an invitation to new and aspiring womenswear designers to submit portfolios for our inaugural Designer Open Call. In accordance with our aim to introduce distinctive new collections the open call will provide a forum and an opportunity for undiscovered designers to present and sell their work for the Spring 2010 season.

Details: Notice for portfolio submissions is effective immediately calling for designers to send artwork inclusive of sketches and photos to opencall@debutnewyork.com by Tuesday, November 10th. Debut New York will review all material and highlight select entrants on the boutique’s blog (debutnewyork.blogspot.com) throughout the process.

Up to 3 finalists will be designated and invited for a presentation on Tuesday, November 17th at Debut’s Mulberry Street location (those who cannot make it in person will still be considered).

Conclusion: Winner(s) will be announced on Monday, November 23rd, and Debut New York will feature the winning designs in our Spring 2010 lineup.