Sunday, March 28, 2010

New York, Wu York


York Wu is the quintessence of the modern designer: a multi-platform, globally-minded precision artist. He’s set forth with focused, singular creativity in sculpture, interior design, art and creative offshoots, specifically WUYORK’s decadent, delicately crafted army of bowties.

The unisex pieces are nestled in a substantial leather case, adorned with the slippery satin ends of ribbons that affix the bows around the neck, wrist or wherever one can find a place. It feels somehow “off” to refer to these as accessories, so without bringing too lofty references to the interpretation of fashion, I’ll leave it as such: WUYORK’s bowties are little works of drama.

A neat black leather tie has an errant “strand” that drips with glinting silver studs. Another that looks from afar like a smooth cream bow is in fact stiff cotton cording pleated to look like a single piece. An organized chaos of black organza has a blousy, Victorian-meets-Yohji sensibility, and is shown as a pin to the lapel of a jacket. We like it worn over a bright white t-shirt, or perhaps peeking out from beneath a slick tuxedo sans shirt.

There’s a sensuality to each of these perfect pieces that comes from Wu’s intense care for his work, as well as the lightness and duality of the materials. The aim to transfix, transpose and transcend is at work here, and it will not remain unnoticed for long.

She said...

He said...



Monday, March 15, 2010

Cool.

A flash of color from behind a khaki trench is a siren call of spring, of parties, and better things to come. Structured dresses, high hemlines and lightly sculpted fabrics call to mind days of high heels, bare legs and long dinners on porches somewhere not…here.

And thank-you, Julian J. Smith, for reminding us that we can don one of your color-packed frocks any day of the year and feel exuberant.

Smith, a London fashion darling if there ever was one in Debut’s midst has quickly developed a following for his simple, yet structured looks that are all about maximum impact without high concept fuss, in the vein of Pop Art of the 60s.

Color is used strategically, yet unabashedly and woven in clean lines over neutral navy, beige and I suppose, yes, pink can be considered a neutral in Smith’s lexicon. A preppy vibe tugs gently around the edges of spare shift shapes and short-sleeved nip-waisted dresses, but Smith is about the playful factor with undulating folds of silk and hems that reignite the hemline vs. economic state debate.

Pair with the highest heels and go:



Sunday, March 7, 2010

Parisii: The Craftsmen



Paris fashion week, arguably the most anticipated of the biannual events, is a time of exclusivity, hedonism and purpose. We are reminded that great creativity exists in the original hotbed of fashion, with all the deserved pomp and circumstance. And so we’ve flown off to see what this character of a city will bring us to distinguish ourselves for Fall 2010.

To comfort our compatriots back home we’ve left one of Paris’s current and future jewels: Calla. In our history, never has a designer generated such natural heat prior to arriving in-store. We’ve had emails from Brazil, calls from California and neighborhood friends stopping by “just to check in” on Calla’s debut collection.

The designer, Calla Haynes, hails from Toronto and attended Parsons in New York and Paris, where it seems she was truly born and raised. For it was with the houses of Rochas and Ricci, and individuals like Olivier Theyskens – arbiters of the lean construction and lightness of hand we attribute to the masters – where Calla honed her craft. She then moved on to develop original prints for designers including Alexander Wang and Erin Fetherston.

The sum of her skills and proclivities is a collection for the modern “coquine” – a woman who needs a new luxury brand that looks as good as it feels to wear. Airy silk organza and buttery cotton layering separates feel enlightened, so perhaps “The City of Light” is a moniker-cum-self-fulfilling prophecy for its young talent.

* The perfect new "twin-set" - a silky cotton cropped top with a draped racerback tank
* PERFECT Black Pants